The wine o’clock happy hours of our pandemic social media has now given way to a crop of sprightly millennials knocking back alcohol-free wines and cocktails in inviting ads. What’s going on? It’s only partly a reaction to negative health reports regarding drinking during the pandemic, since this trend toward no-ABV wine and cocktails has actually been going on for some time—industry analysts estimate the category has increased sales 506 percent since 2015. Now summer’s here, and in the interests of providing a no-alcohol option to our party guests as well as a booze-free (and in many cases, lower-calorie) happy hour when it’s just us at home, we checked out the cream of the new booze-free crop of wine and spirits.