While I’m relatively familiar with different hair types—as in straight, wavy, curly and kinky— there’s an even further spectrum to categorize your hair by, and understanding it might just be the best way to determine what kind of products work with your strands: Hair porosity. If you understand your hair’s porosity, you can get on the road towards better haircare. That means knowing if you should be looking for a cream, butter or oil—or none of the above. In fact, matching your haircare regimen with your porosity can make a big difference between having hydrated, defined hair and a frizzy, tangled mess To better understand where you fall on the hair porosity scale, I chatted with three experts to learn more about hair porosity and four tests you can do to find out yours.
Do You Know Your Hair Porosity? Here's How to Find Out, According to Experts
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Meet the Experts
- Dr. Karen Kagha is a medical and cosmetic dermatologist based in Southern California. She serves on committees for the American Academy of Dermatology, the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery and the American Society of Laser Medicine and Surgery.
- Sarah Sango is an international hair expert, global educator and Afro haircare specialist for Lush. She has 20 years of experience, specializing in hair styling and cutting, protective styles, extensions and product development. She has been working with Lush since 2017 and teaching aspiring stylists.
- Kerry Yates is a trichologist and the founder of Colour Collective. She has over 20 years of experience in the beauty space. Yates has a bachelor’s degree in marketing cosmetics from Fashion Institute of Technology. She previously worked as a global director at Unilever and served as vice president at Revlon.
What Is Hair Porosity?
Basically, hair porosity is how well your hair absorbs and holds moisture. The type of porosity you have is determined by how easy it is for water or any other substances (aka oil, dirt or chemicals) to navigate through the outermost layer of the hair shaft, known as the cuticle.
“The hair cuticle plays a role in the porosity of the hair because it acts as a protective barrier to the hair shaft. The cuticle can be damaged by heat, over-manipulation, or chemicals. Any damage to the cuticle can thus alter the hair’s porosity,” says Dr. Kagha.
There are three levels of hair porosity: High, medium and low. While medium porosity is ideal because it holds the healthiest amount of moisture, none of them is necessarily bad, and using products specifically designed for your porosity level will leave your hair looking its best.
Types of Hair Porosity, Explained
What Is Low Porosity?
Low porosity means cuticles are tight and overlapping. Hair has a tough time holding onto moisture (even if you try wetting it) while also resisting any kinds of chemicals penetrating through. OK, but is it bad to have low porosity hair? Not at all. Your hair just takes a minute to absorb water. It’s a bit shy when it meets moisture and needs a little push in the right direction.
Expert Tips for Low Porosity Hair
After testing, I found out I had low porosity and went on the hunt for the best products for low porosity hair. According to the experts, avoid any heavy butters, creams or oils since it will most likely weigh down your hair and lead to major product buildup. Instead look for clarifying shampoos and protein-free conditioners that won’t leave your hair feeling stiff and brittle or cause any excess build up. Dr. Kagha recommends checking out products with super penetrating humectant and emollient ingredients (aka glycerin and honey) to hydrate your hair.
When it comes to conditioning, try doing hair steaming, applying a low-heat cap or a hooded dryer to get the job done. Since the cuticles are usually tight, Sango suggests using warm water to help open them up and let some moisture pass through.
Shop for Low Porosity
What Is Medium Porosity?
Medium porosity means cuticles are a tad looser—just the right amount of moisture goes in and out. Want to try a hairstyle? Go for it. Ready to color your hair? Do it. (Though it might alter your porosity over time.) You can forget having to deal with much maintenance when it comes to medium porosity since you won’t have to worry about a ton of hair concerns.
Expert Tips for Medium Porosity Hair
Try deep conditioning and protein treatments to maintain the balance of your moisture and hold. Dr. Kagha also recommends using liquid-based conditioners such as milks and creams, as well as butters and oils.
Shop for Medium Porosity
What Is High Porosity?
High porosity means cuticles are loose to the point that your hair may have some tiny gaps and holes in it. Hair has too much moisture (and also loses moisture easily) which can lead to frizz, tangles, dryness and breakage. Ouch, so it’s bad to have high porosity hair? Not at all. It doesn’t necessarily mean you have damaged and unhealthy hair. Your hair could just be more delicate, fine and in need of extra TLC.
Expert Tips for High Porosity Hair
Avoid glycerin and other humectant-focused products at all costs. Yates also recommends avoiding any silicones as they’re difficult to wash out and may cause buildup, leaving hair looking and feeling dry. So, what are the best products for high porosity hair? The experts suggest leave-in conditioners, moisturizers, butters (like raw shea butter) and oils (black castor, coconut or olive oil) to seal any damaged cuticles and prevent excess moisture from seeping through. Don’t forget to also use heat protectant products before using any heat tools.
How to Figure Out Your Hair Porosity
You don’t need to concoct a science experiment or head to your nearest salon to figure out your hair porosity. Here are four simple tests you can try right at home.
1. The Float Test
The float test is by far the most popular test of the three. All you’ll need is a strand of your hair (make sure the sample is clean and dry), a glass of water and...well, patience. Just grab some strands from your brush or pull a couple straight from your head (avoiding any strands around your face or go-to part line), drop a single strand into the glass of water and wait about 2 to 4 minutes for the results. If the strand floats for a long time, that means you have low porosity. But if it sinks, your porosity is high. However, if your strand happens to be in the middle of the water, chances are you have medium to normal porosity.
However, the experts say this test is not always the most accurate. “While the concept is simple—placing a clean strand of hair in water to see if it floats or sinks quickly—the results can be misleading. Factors like product buildup, oils or residue on the hair can affect how it behaves in water. Even the temperature of the water or tiny air bubbles can skew the outcome. Additionally, many people have mixed porosity across different sections of their hair, which the test doesn’t account for. So while the float test can be a helpful starting point, it’s best to combine it with other methods like the spray test, observing how your hair absorbs products or how long it takes to dry for a more accurate understanding,” she explains.
2. The Slip 'n' Slide Test
No tools are needed for this one. Just grab a strand of hair and slide your fingers up towards your scalp. If you feel little bumps along the way, you have high porosity. (The ridges mean your cuticle is lifted and open.) But if it feels dense and brittle, you have low porosity. For medium porosity, the strand will feel smooth and glide easily on your fingers. Similar to the float test, Sango notes this one should be combined with other tests (that I’ll get to a bit).
3. The Water Spray Test
This test is great for curly gals. Just spritz some water onto your curls and look closely before asking yourself, does it absorb quickly or do water droplets remain on the surface? If it soaked up all the water, you probably have high porosity hair. If it takes a moment to sink into your curls, you have low porosity. But if the water soaks easily into your hair and leaves a damp look, you have medium porosity. This test also mirrors that product absorption test, which observes whether products sit on top or soaks up quickly.
4. The Drying Time Test
On the flip side, trying the drying time test can be a great indicator of your hair porosity. After washing your hair, see how long it takes to dry on its own without a diffuser or hair dryer. If it takes a long time to dry then you probably have low porosity. But if it dries quickly, you have high porosity hair.
Hopefully you’ve been able to pinpoint your hair porosity using the above tests, but if you’re still unsure, the experts recommend getting a professional hair analysis. Can I suggest a rejuvenating head spa experience? I’ve had a few and it really helps analyze my scalp and understand my strands better.
What Causes Hair Porosity—and Can It Change?
It’s important to note that your hair porosity level is initially based on genetics, but that doesn’t mean it can’t change over time due to external factors. Cuticles can fuse together, open up or become damaged based on chemical processes (like perms, relaxers and color dye), heat tools or environmental exposures. Even excessive friction from scarves, hats and scrunchies can shift the outer layer’s relationship with moisture. “If you start with low or medium porosity, your hair may become more porous with time and stress. So maintaining a gentle routine with regular deep conditioning and protein treatments can help manage and protect your hair as it changes,” adds Sango.
So, What Is Hair Porosity—and Why Is It Important?
TL;DR: hair porosity is how your strands can absorb and maintain moisture. It’s important to know if you have low, medium or high porosity hair to create a haircare routine and find products that show off your gorgeous mane. “The term ‘porosity’ is trending because it reframes the conversation around hair concerns. Instead of just saying ‘frizz,’ consumers are now learning about the science behind why hair reacts the way it does,” explains Yates. “Traditionally used in professional salon environments, this term is now making its way into mainstream beauty discussions, elevating the conversation and empowering consumers to better understand and care for their hair.”
Moving forward, be more conscious of how you treat your hair and get to know it a little better. The more you give your locks what they need, the more you’ll find that they cooperate. Good hair days can be everyday.
