There Are 12 Different Hair Types. Here’s How to Know Which One You Have

You might be thinking there are only a handful of hair types—like straight or curly—but did you know that there are actually 12 different hair types? OK, technically there are four main types with three subcategories for each of them, but still, that brings us to a total of 12, which is a lot more than we ever considered.

Not to worry, with the help of our panel of hair experts, we’ll break everything down for you ahead, including tips for determining your hair type, so you can figure out which haircuts work best for you and the products that'll help you make the most of your natural texture.

• Dave Stanwell is a celebrity hair stylist, groomer and expert for House of Frieda based in Los Angeles. After training with L’Oréal and Toni & Guy for coloring and cutting, he began building his celebrity clientele, which includes Camila Mendes, Lucy Hale and Laura Dern. His work has been featured in major publications around the world, including L’uomo Vogue, Elle, Vanity Fair and Harper’s Bazaar.
• Sabrina Ahmed is an Aveda Institute-trained hairstylist with over ten years of experience. Her passion for curly hair stems from years of practice on her own hair after having difficulty finding someone well-versed in natural hair care in her home state of Minnesota. With clients that range from the everyday curly girl to celebrities like H.E.R, Ahmed has created a niche in the Los Angeles market. She is now one of the go-to stylists for curly girls looking to embrace their natural curls and optimize their curl patterns.   
• Mariel Falla is a cosmetology educator for the Aveda Arts & Sciences Institutes New York. Prior to Aveda, she worked as a stylist at Rob Peetoom Salon in Brooklyn, NY, and Asanda Spa in TK city, where she cut and colored hair.

“This can be tricky sometimes,” concedes Stanwell, but “a rule of thumb is to let your hair dry naturally and individually feel out each strand to see if it’s coarse or thin when you touch it.” That’s a starting point for you at home, but don’t be afraid to enlist your stylist’s help if you’re still uncertain.

“As stylists, we’re exposed to a wide range of hair types on a daily basis and are able to categorize where someone might fall,” assures Falla. “Sometimes people even have a combination of multiple hair types on different areas of their head,” she adds.

Hoping for another easy-to-follow list? We’ve got you. Ahmed shares her best tips for figuring out your hair type below.

First, observe the curl pattern: After washing your hair, let it air dry without using any styling products. Take a close look at the shape of your strands. 

• If your hair is mostly straight with no noticeable curl or wave, you have Type 1 straight hair.
• If your hair has a slight wave or loose curls, you have Type 2 wavy hair.
• If your hair has well-defined curls that form an "S" shape, you have Type 3 curly hair.
• If your hair has tight coils or kinky curls, you have Type 4 kinky hair.

Next, look at the texture: Determine the texture of your hair by assessing its thickness and diameter.

• If your hair feels fine and thin, you have fine texture.
• If your hair feels medium in thickness, you have medium texture.
• If your hair feels thick and coarse, you have coarse texture.

By understanding both your curl pattern and hair texture, you can determine your hair type more accurately. Keep in mind that hair types can vary, and you may have a combination of different hair types, which is why it’s always helpful to consult with a hairstylist as well. 

“In addition to the curl pattern and texture, there are a few more considerations to take note of that can help you better understand and care for your specific hair type,” shares Ahmed.

1. Porosity: Hair porosity refers to how well your hair can absorb and retain moisture. It can be categorized into three types:

• Low Porosity: Hair with low porosity has tightly closed cuticles, making it more resistant to moisture absorption. It may take longer for products to penetrate the hair shaft.
• Medium Porosity: Hair with medium porosity has a balanced ability to absorb and retain moisture.
• High Porosity: Hair with high porosity has open cuticles, allowing moisture to be absorbed quickly but also making it prone to losing moisture easily.

2. Density: Hair density refers to the number of hair strands on your head. It can be categorized into three types:

• Low Density: Hair with low density has fewer strands per square inch, giving a thinner appearance.
• Medium Density: Hair with medium density has an average number of strands per square inch.
• High Density: Hair with high density has a higher number of strands per square inch, giving a fuller appearance.

3. Elasticity: Hair elasticity refers to how well your hair stretches and returns to its original shape without breaking. It can indicate the health and strength of your hair. Healthy hair has good elasticity, while damaged hair may have reduced elasticity.

Understanding these additional factors can help you choose the right products, styling techniques and treatments to maintain and enhance the health and appearance of your hair.