California Pizza Kitchen’s New Baked Mac & Cheese Menu, Ranked by a Food Editor

• What It Is: shaved cremini mushrooms, with Romano, Parmesan and mozzarella mac, made with extra-virgin olive oil and fresh garlic and topped with slivered scallions and cracked black pepper
• Price: $19

I really appreciated the elevated look of the plentiful shrooms and the crisped, oniony scallions on top. This mac’s base wasn’t as runny as the five-cheese sauce, and the mushrooms imparted some earthy umami to the pasta itself, so you get some of their funky flavor in every bite (which means you won’t have to ration pieces as you eat for balance). That said, I still found myself craving more mushrooms as I ate, and I felt the entire plate could’ve used a touch more salt.

• What It Is: grilled chicken in CPK’s signature BBQ sauce with Gouda-mozzarella mac, red onions and fresh cilantro
• Price: $18

I’d say this is the most aesthetically pleasing CPK baked mac and cheese of the entire lineup. The cheese base struck a lovely balance between creamy and saucy. I liked the texture of the chicken, as it was tender and moist on the inside—save for a few dry pieces—yet thoroughly charred and crisp on the outside. The acidity of the barbecue sauce (think tangy, vinegary and a touch fruity, perhaps from ketchup) brought the mild cheeses to life, while the onions and herbs imparted crunch and freshness to the plate.

• What It Is: mac and cheese made with both fresh and traditional mozzarella, Monterey Jack, smoked Gouda and Romano cheeses, topped with tomatoes and fresh basil
• Price: $17

I tried the plainest of the lot first to see how brightly the noodles and cheese sauce would shine on their own. While the sauce looked a bit thin and runny when I first dug in, its flavor was savory, just salty enough and mild. The combination of cheeses was apparent; I could taste the sharp, aged edge of the Romano and the buttery sweetness of the Gouda, as well as see the melty, stretchy glory of the mozz and Monterey Jack. The slightly charred basil gave an earthy, herby note to every few bites, while the tomato imparted color and acid (and, most importantly, made it look like a pizza).

• What It Is: tender marinated steak with mozzarella-Monterey Jack mac, cilantro pesto, shaved poblano peppers, yellow onions, fresh cilantro and roasted salsa verde
• Price: $20

The sauce was on the thin side compared to some of the others, although I loved its smoky, vegetal notes, courtesy of the poblanos. I also appreciated the brightness of the salsa verde. The cilantro pesto was notably earthy and fresh, although I’d say cilantro haters will find it too soapy for their liking. The onions offered peppery sharpness and crunch. As for the steak, it looked dry to me at first, but once I tasted it, I came around. It was surprisingly moist for the char it had on the outside, and it was also very well-seasoned and moderately spicy.

• What It Is: tender smoked brisket burnt ends in CPK’s signature BBQ sauce with Gouda-mozzarella mac, pickled onions and fresh cilantro
• Price: $20

Although the same cheese blend was used for this CPK baked mac and cheese as the BBQ variety, the sauce tasted a bit rounder and sweeter here. At first, I thought it could’ve used more salt, but paired with everything else on the plate, it was very balanced and checked all the boxes. It made a stellar complement to the fall-apart-tender brisket, which was equal parts crisp and succulent. The rub or marinade they used was deeply flavorful and smoky without tasting artificial. The pickled onions were simple, vibrant and acidic, a stellar foil for their rich counterparts.