Designers to Petite Women: Here's How to Choose a Winter Coat When You're Under 5'4"

Plus, PureWow's shorty editors share their tips

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winter-coats-for-short-women: two women in coats collage
Loft; Rachel Bowie

Your winter coat needs to do a lot of work, from signaling your style with bright colors to keeping you dependably warm. And it’s got to do all of this while fitting comfortably over an ongoing fashion show of sweaters, long sleeves and multiple layers, which can cause an issue for petite women, who don’t have much leeway between something being comfortably loose and unflatteringly bulky. Jordan Foster, style director at Favorite Daughter (a clothing line created by Erin and Sara Foster), uses her insights on the daily.

“When you're a petite (as I am personally), it's so important to follow the rule of thirds,” Foster says. “Petites can get swallowed up quickly by a top that is too long or a dress or coat that is the wrong length; clothing can take over a petite person very easily if the fit is wrong and we never want the clothes to be wearing us.” We turned to Foster (who designed the covetable Simon Coat) as well as petite women on PureWow’s staff for their cold weather-tested rules to follow for choosing the best winter coats—and we have some recommendations of coats to shop for each. Stay warm, shorties!

Meet the Experts

woman wearing belted coat
Edward Berthelot / Getty

1. Nip in the Waist

“A nipped-in waist is an incredibly helpful tool in petite dressing,” says Foster (who is 5’4”). “If your waist is nipped, it allows for a dress to be more flowy on the bottom or blousy on the top or for your coat to be a longer length but not make it look like you're a child wearing your mom's coat.”

winter coats for short women beige long streetstyle
Jeremy Moeller / Getty

2. Choose a Long Coat for Drama

“I am personally a fan of coats being longer than your dress/skirt no matter your size,” says Foster. “The average coat hits at the knee or mid-calf, and I find it always feels more casual and less of a fashion moment. The Simon Coat [from Favorite Daughter] is a duster coat, so it hits more at the ankle on most people and this style is incredibly hard to find in petite versions. For petites I never recommend a coat hitting in no man's land....i.e. between the top of a pant and the top of the knee.  Go for a style that is cropped, hits at the waistline or is knee length or longer. It's all about proportions for petites.”

mid thigh length coat on a woman's shoulders
Jeremy Moeller / Getty

3. Mid-Thigh/Knee Length Is a Universal Win

Though Foster loves the look of a longer coat on her shorter frame, not all petite women agree. “My personal rule is that a long coat can't go longer than mid-calf on me, or it looks like I'm playing dress up in my dad's outerwear,” says PureWow editor-in-chief Jillian Quint. Designer Tigist Ketema, founder of Tigist Petites, has a slightly different tip. “When shopping for petite dresses or skirts, the age-old wisdom that you shouldn't go for anything that hits mid-calf still holds true,” she says. “Instead, invest in pieces that fall around the knee, go down to the floor or stop at mid-thigh to elongate your petite frame.”

winter coats for short women open duster
Jeremy Moeller / Getty

4. Coordinate What You’re Wearing Underneath

I'm 5’3”, but I don't shy away from volume, as long as I take my styling seriously. I think long and even oversized can work—just make sure you look like you are wearing an oversize coat on purpose, not because it just doesn't fit you. Also, when I've got on a flowing coat, I stay away from slouchy sweats or other wide leg casual pants, because all those layers don't look intentional or integrated...and all together, the outfit is one big sartorial bloat. So I'll go for an all-black look underneath or a shorter skirt with tights and a clingy sweater.

winter coats for short women leopard coat
Gisela Schober / Getty

5. Shoulders and Arms Must Hit Correctly

Petite editors agree that finding the right fit in outerwear is definitely not just a matter of length—shoulders and arm length are a huge issue. Since the Sézane Clyde coat isn't offered in petite sizing, 5'2" editor Rachel Bowie opted for a size smaller than her usual, in order to ensure a good fit around her body. "Sizing down worked in my favor especially in terms of the armpit fit and length, but it's probably worth cross-checking your measurements with the brand's sizing chart to get the right fit for you," she suggests in her in-depth review. "I found that, even when sizing down, I was still able to layer chunkier pieces like a sweater and blazer without looking bulky—a win." Similarly, PureWow director of Affiliate Strategy Pamela Masin loves her Quince puffer coat for the way it fits her 5'2" frame, even though it too is not made specifically for petites. "The hip area is very true to size...ie, not the roomiest fit, but also I think if it were bigger it would make the coat unflattering and more marshmallow-y," she says. "There's enough room for a sweater, but not a seriously chunky knit." Since the coat is slim, the way it hangs all the way to the ankles on a petite looks intentional.

winter coats for short women belted grey
Christian Vierig / Getty

6. Alterations Are Everything

“As a fellow 5’0” woman, I think you should be wearing what you want and not being afraid to making adjustments,” says PureWow beauty and cultures editor Chelsea Candelario. “I’m team dry cleaners. They have always helped in fixing clothes if I need it (i.e. dress, pants).” Senior director of special projects and royals Rachel Bowie agrees: “I actually just had a long coat adjusted at the tailor and one of the best tricks was adjusting where the belt loops hit. It made the whole coat fit like a dream! And they only went up by an inch.” For example, in the shot above, 5’2” actress and artist Heart Evangelist rocks a long grey coat, but isn’t overwhelmed by it due to the perfect fit of every angle—from the shoulder to the sleeves to the waist—making it look perfect.


dana dickey

Senior Editor

  • Writes about fashion, wellness, relationships and travel
  • Studied journalism at the University of Florida