Review: Sugar Factory’s New Menu Items Are Totally OTT, from the Big Boss Burger to Spaghetti Ice Cream

• What It Is: two pounds smashed Angus beef burger patties, cheese, pickles, shredded lettuce, tomato, crispy onions and Sugar Factory sauce on a toasted brioche bun, stuffed with fries and served with house cheese sauce, poured tableside
• Price: $101

This handheld is not for the faint of heart. You could easily split this behemoth between four or five people. The massive bun was sturdy and cut out in the center to have a place for the literally perfect battered fries. They were rich, evenly, flawlessly salted and leaned soggy (my favorite).

For the burger itself, I wished the wetter toppings were on top, but I figured the fry hole would make eating it that way harder. The bottom of the bun, although it was toasted, was a bit soggy on the bottom. The beef was a bit tougher than I’d like, but I imagine if it had been super juicy and cooked pink on the inside, it would have been wetter and more of a chore to eat. It had some flavorful char and a solid savory flavor but lacked seasoning. The crispy onions and pickles were my favorite components, as well as the choice of cheddar cheese over American. And maybe it was a fluke, but it didn’t come with cheese sauce. For the price, it felt a bit too gimmicky, but split between friends, it would be more worth it for the experience.

• What It Is: crispy chicken breast, house marinara sauce, shredded mozzarella cheese, Parmesan cheese, spaghetti
• Price: $44

This spread is designed to serve a couple, but the thoroughly crispy chicken could easily feed four. That said, I felt the dish deserved more pasta and bread to suit the amount of poultry provided. Speaking of, the bread was exquisite, like a fluffy cross between brioche and focaccia. I thought it could have used a flourish of flaky salt but eating it alongside the other components evened out the flavor. The cheese and sauce offered salt and acidity, and I liked that the chicken wasn’t drenched or plated atop sauce or pasta, which helped it retain its crunch on all sides. The pasta was optimally cooked and al dente throughout. The sauce was simple and rustic, like the chicken’s breading.

• What It Is: a skillet dessert of your choice topped with rainbow sprinkles and a gummy cherry
• Price: varies

You can add spaghetti ice cream—aka ice cream pressed through a mold into strings—to any skillet dessert on the menu. I opted for the chocolate chip cookie over the brownie and s’mores bake. The cookie itself had a nice crunch to it; it wasn’t overly decadent or super molten inside, making for a less messy eating experience. All that considered, the cookie still had a lot of chocolate and a balanced flavor that boasted just the right dose of salt. It came with whipped cream and M&Ms, which I had no issue with. But the rainbow icing on the side, albeit cute and colorful, tasted like cough syrup to me. Without it, this treat is definitely worth the buy.

• What It Is: vanilla ice cream blended with rainbow sprinkles in a teal-covered mug with colorful neon sauces, topped with whipped cream, glitter, mermaid tails, pink pearls, sour gummy flowers and rainbow sprinkles
• Price: $21

Behold: a sipper born to be Instagrammed. This shake was gorgeously crafted and deliciously extra. While it was missing the neon stripes of sauce on the inside, the shake itself was supremely creamy, vanilla-y and sippable. (Forget fighting the straw for a single drop.) The gummies—both the sour flowers and berry-like mermaid tails—were tender, soft and sweet-tart. I also really enjoyed the chocolate pearls, which were delightfully crisp on the outside and more substantial than expected. While the frosting on the outside seemed wasteful, this is a no-brainer for kids and special occasions.

• What It Is: crispy rice, ahi tuna, Kewpie mayo, sriracha, sesame oil, scallions, jalapeños, toasted sesame seeds
• Price: $21

I had no notes. This new Sugar Factory menu item was perfect. It had the thickest, crunchiest crust I’ve ever seen on crispy rice. Inside, it was super fluffy and just a touch sticky at the edges, making for a texturally intriguing bite. The ratio of fish to sauce and fish to rice was ideal. The tuna was well seasoned and evenly coated, but they didn’t go too hard on the mayo to the point that the fish was overshadowed. The spice was tingly and persistent but very manageable. I could have seen using scallions instead of raw jalapeño rounds, but 1) they brought additional fresh heat and 2) their shape helped hold the fish and rice together between bites. I’d absolutely order this again.