The Fran Lebowitz Formula for Fashion That’s Smarter Than Any Trends

From Dakota Johnson to Kate Middleton, there’s no shortage of celebrity style inspiration and aesthetics. However, if I may, not all of it feels…approachable. As someone who has slowly learned how to dress herself while working in fashion, my biggest revelation is that I could have all the clothes in the world, and still look bad if I don’t know how to style them properly.

What I realized is that I want a uniform: Something simple but interesting that doesn’t require much thought, while looking polished. That’s when I realized, the most underrated style icon of all time was right under my nose: humorist, writer, speaker and author Fran Lebowitz.

While Lebowitz came to fame for Metropolitan Life (1978) and Social Studies (1981), she is arguably most recognizable now for her sartorial choices. So much so that there’s a yearly FranCon that takes place in New York City, now five years running. The only prerequisite is to dress like Lebowitz. Lucky for all of us, that’s actually quite easy.

The writer’s fashion preferences have been widely documented in photographs and media. For the “everyday” Lebowitz look, we can narrow it down to these six essentials.

Lebowitz is said to be a fan of the Savile Row tailors in London, which can run in the thousands. (Her brand of choice is Anderson & Sheppard.) However, oversized tailoring is in, so it’s not difficult to find a similar cut for a fraction of the price. Stick to neutrals—she’s often seen in gray, black, navy and pinstripe iterations. 

Reportedly an Oxford shirt, and similarly mildly oversized. Per her interview with l’étiquette, they’re from Hilditch & Key, purchased in Paris or London. Again, any oversized white button-down will do.

Thrifted, ideally. Lebowitz is intensely loyal to the style, which used to be American made. So if you can find them at your local secondhand shop, do it. I’m a big fan of Buffalo Exchange, Second Street Vintage. If thrifting online, I like to see all the aggregated options with Beni.

She’s been wearing one pair for over four decades. Per her specifications, the toe is round, shaft to the mid-calf and the height is about an inch. Unsurprisingly, she had four pairs custom made.

Lebowitz will often don an oversized trench atop her blazer in appropriate weather. Think large lapels, shoulder details, double-breasted buttons. But, any oversized trench will do.

In chillier weather, Lebowitz has been spotted in a simple black overcoat, which coordinates seamlessly with the rest of her outfit. Given her penchant for oversized fits, the coat is also loose. Depending on your preferences, choose accordingly.

The beauty of the Fran Lebowitz outfit formula is that the styling remains the same, though you can change your clothes. For Lebowitz, the utmost priority is to have something well-made—clothing that will keep in the closet for decades and still look amazing.

When it comes to styling, the shirt is always tucked into the jeans; the jean cuffs are often rolled up; the cowboy boots are worn under the pant legs and the blazer tops off the look.

When asked in the l’étiquette interview if she feels she dresses repetitively, I thought her answer was brilliant:

“No, because I don’t think I dress the same way every day at all. When I change my shirt or jacket, it’s not the same. And when I change my cufflinks–I love cufflinks and have tons of them–I feel like it’s a whole new outfit. If you think I dress the same every day, you’re really not looking very closely.”

Proof that mixing and matching just six key wardrobe staples can be a fount of creativity and options. Plus, I think there’s nothing cooler than having a uniform people instantly recognize as you.

The key here is to use Lebowitz’s uniform as a rough ingredient list, tailoring it to your preferences. Remember, you don’t need her exact formula, but as long as you have some type of jeans, blazer and button-down, you’re well on your way. Case in point, me and PureWow Senior Editor Dana Dickey, above. Styled with clothing already in our closets!

And, if you’re like me and don’t love cowboy boots, any mid- or knee- shaft boot will do. (Lebowitz also shared that she wore penny loafers for years before switching over to boots.) Last tip—don’t be afraid to shop in the men’s section if it interests you. That’s pretty much Lebowitz’s entire closet.

Now, the fun part. Here are nine under-$250 picks that can have you looking sharp in no time—and that won’t be at the mercy of the trend cycle.