Beauty Buffs: Copper Peptides Are the New Niacinamide

Hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and now, copper peptides is joining the skincare conversation. The key ingredient is known for encouraging hair growth and smoothing fine lines, but are the bold claims *really* true? Before you reach for that face serum (or scalp oil), I chatted with medical experts to learn more about this buzzy peptide. Here’s everything I discovered—plus, products worth checking out. 

• Dr. Muneeb Shah is a board-certified dermatologist, educator and founder of REMEDY. Also known as ‘Derm Doctor,’ he makes skin health engaging and accessible for over 21 million followers across TikTok, Instagram and YouTube. His expertise has been featured in Forbes, Vogue, Allure, Cosmopolitan and CNN.
• Krysha Mallari is a board-certified nurse practitioner and functional health expert at Body+Beauty Lab dedicated to optimizing functional health and enhancing quality of life for adults and older individuals.

Copper peptides are a type of peptide molecule, which is often referred to as GHK-Cu. As Mallari explains, “Your body naturally produces GHK, and when it binds to copper, it signals the skin to repair and rebuild. As we age, these levels decline, so applying copper peptides topically can help support healthy skin renewal and repair.” 

Research shows topical copper peptides help stimulate collagen and elastin production—aka skin’s firming and smoothing mechanisms. Other benefits include reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, calming redness and brightening uneven skin tone. “The ingredient is known for supporting overall skin structure and resilience,” adds Dr. Shah. It’s often found in face serums, adding just a few drops every night for firmer skin. 

In a recent study, male participants tried a combination of minoxidil, dutasteride and copper peptides. Research found the latter to be essential in encouraging hair growth over five months. However, more research needs to be done before we can say copper peptides can *solely* aid hair growth and tackle hair loss without the need for the already establish hair growth supplements (like minoxidil).  

The experts say that copper peptides are generally safe to use and work well with other ingredients. Dr. Shah notes, “The only consideration is that they may compete with vitamin C for the same binding sites, which could slightly affect efficacy if used together. That said, there’s no conclusive data showing they can’t be combined. Overall, they’re gentle, well-tolerated and beneficial for supporting collagen and overall skin health.”

Dr. Shah believes one is not better than the other, rather they can work together in your skincare routine. “Retinol helps with fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and acne, while also increasing cell turnover. On the other hand, copper peptides focus more on firming, elasticity and collagen support,” he explains. “The advantage of copper peptides is that they’re gentler and safe to use during pregnancy, unlike retinol. Many people who can’t tolerate retinol do well with copper peptides. Personally, I like to use retinol at night and copper peptides in the morning since they target different mechanisms in the skin.” 

Copper peptides are suitable for most skin types, especially those with sensitive, dry or sun-damaged skin. If you’re looking to target signs of aging, Dr. Shah recommends adding the ingredient to your routine. “The biggest benefits are for those looking to improve skin firmness, elasticity and fine lines. There’s even some data showing they can help with discoloration and inflammation as well. There’s really no group that can’t use them—they’re gentle, effective, and suitable for everyone,” he adds. 

However, Mallari suggests those with acne-prone skin should continue to use retinoids or other acne treatments for oil and pore control before adding copper peptides for healing and minimizing scarring. 

Safe to say copper peptides are worth exploring. Though Mallari leaves you with this helpful tip, “Most studies are encouraging but still small and short-term, lasting about 12 weeks, so we do not yet have decades of data like we do with retinol. Results take time and are not immediate, so setting realistic expectations is important.”