Facial Cupping Is Back—But Dermatologists Are Begging You to Stop Making These Mistakes

The practice of cupping has a long history, going back thousands of years before Michael Phelps showed up at the 2016 Olympics with giant red circles peppering his back. But that was a pivotal moment in wellness history. Following that appearance, the interest in facial cupping specifically spiked, and peaked in 2018 before taking another dip the past five years. Now, however, the practice is popular on social media, leading to a steady increase in renewed interest. There are plenty of claims surrounding it: Lymphatic drainage, stimulated collagen production, decreased puffiness and reduced lines and wrinkles. Below, I chatted with dermatologist Dara Spearman about the pros, cons and best practices you need to know before trying it out yourself.

Dr. Dara Spearman is a board-certified dermatologist and the owner of Radiant Dermatology Associates. Dr. Spearman earned her undergraduate degree from Hope College and her medical degree from the University of Michigan Medical School. After receiving her medical degree, she completed extensive training at the University of Michigan for Dermatology Residency. She provides a variety of treatments at her practice such as treatments for acne, eczema, psoriasis, skin cancer, rashes, and more.

Facial cupping is an ancient practice dating back to the ancient Egyptians, Macedonians and Greeks. As this 2023 publication notes, “Cupping has traditionally carried folkloric, cultural, religious, and spiritual significance within various societies.”

When I think about cupping, Michael Phelps (and his polk-a-dot ridden back) immediately spring to mind. According to Dr. Spearman, while the concept is the same, purposes—and execution techniques—defer.

“Facial cupping is typically for cosmetic and gentle therapeutic uses and involves smaller, softer silicone or glass cups that are gentler on the skin,” she explains. “Conversely, body cupping is more intense because the goal is to relieve any deep tension, improve muscle recovery and pain relief, the cups are usually larger (also glass or silicone) to reach bigger areas like the back and have stronger suction.”

Facial cupping works by using gentle suction to pull blood into a specific area of the skin. Fresh blood then stimulates new blood vessel formation, she says. This 2020 study reported increased blood vessel density by 64 percent and elevated hemoglobin (protein that carries oxygen) concentration 62 percent.

There are a variety of purported benefits. Dr. Spearman tells me the practice can improve circulation, strengthen skin, stimulate collagen production and reduce tension in the face. That can lead to brighter skin and the reduced appearance of lines and wrinkles, decreased puffiness and regulated oil production.

Should you be trying facial cupping at home, Dr. Spearman advises the following:

• Start with a clean face
• Be gentle when moving the cups across your face to prevent bruising
• Apply your skincare right afterwards—cupping can help your skin absorb more products

Not gonna lie, body cupping looks intense. Naturally, you may be wondering, “Will facial cupping give me the same polk-a-dot complexion?!” The answer is, thankfully, no. Per Dr. Spearman: “Facial cupping should not leave any marks, as it is a gentler suction. But, if it is held in the same place for too long that can lead to bruising or discoloration.”

It can take anywhere from a few days to a week for any marks to diminish, though she says that it all depends on your body’s healing process.

Facial cupping can be done at home, and there is no shortage of cupping sets to be found on the internet. However, if you’re new to the game, Dr. Spearman recommends leaving it to the pros—at least in the beginning. This will help you avoid any unwanted discoloration and bruises. You can also pick up tips and best practices from your provider before trying it yourself.

That said, there are a few people who should not try facial cupping. If you have conditions like eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, a blood disorder and or are pregnant, Dr. Spearman advises against the practice. “Those with skin conditions are prone to more irritation and discoloration, those with blood disorders can be more prone to bruising, and pregnant people I advise to just avoid facial cupping or any cupping.”

Similarly to gua sha, facial cupping can aid with lymphatic drainage, and you move the cup on your face in a similar movement, as Dr. Shereene Idriss demonstrates in the video above. Both require the application of serum, oil or another product to glide properly across the skin. While facial cupping uses suction, gua sha has been described more as a “scraping” motion.

Dr. Spearman adds that you should opt for gua sha for facial contouring, and cupping for plumpness and reducing puffiness.

• Over-suctioning: Too much suction can damage or bruise your skin
• Not applying enough serum: The cups need something to glide over, lest they tear or damage your skin
• Not moving the cup quickly enough: This can damage capillaries and cause bruising
• Poor sanitation: Not washing your cups can lead to bacterial growth
• Doing it too frequently: Can cause skin irritation. Dr. Spearman recommends three to five times per week, starting with three. “Make sure to allow time for skin to recover or it may defeat the purpose causing irritation,” she notes.
• Cupping inflammation: I.e. acne or broken skin. Doing so can worsen the condition or cause an infection
• Taking a hot shower right after cupping: You don’t want to increase your body temperature too quickly, or you’ll be prone to discoloration
• Exfoliating: Avoid facial exfoliation right after the procedure