Here’s How Niacinamide Benefits Your Complexion (and How to Work It into Your Skin Care Routine)

We’re always happy to geek out over a buzzy skin care ingredient when we see it making the rounds on product labels. (See: lactic acid, rosehip oil, bakuchiol…) So when we started noticing the proliferation of niacinamide, we were surprised to learn that not only has it been around for a while but there’s a decent body of research behind the multipurpose vitamin. Here’s what you need to know about niacinamide’s benefits for your skin.

“Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3 also known as nicotinamide, is a water-soluble vitamin that has potent antioxidant activity and reduces inflammation,” says board-certified dermatologist David Lortscher, CEO of Curology.

It would be an exaggeration to call niacinamide a cure-all, but it does have a pretty extensive range when it comes to the conditions it can treat: acne, oil regulation, fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, enlarged pores and sun damage. It’s especially good at repairing skin’s moisture barrier (aka its first line of defense) and protecting against environmental stressors—it’s even been shown to help prevent skin cancer in certain studies.

“Niacinamides nourish and calm redness and inflammation,” says Dendy Engelman, a board-certified dermatologist in New York. She particularly likes niacinamide for dry and sensitive skin: “It has similar effects to retinol by strengthening the skin barrier, but it fortifies from the get-go without sensitivity or irritation.” Dr. Lortscher also has high praise: “Because of its role in repairing the skin barrier, niacinamide is one of the most effective treatments for photoaging [damage caused by UV rays], according to most anti-aging research.”

It starts to get technical here, but as Dr. Engelman explains it, “Niacinamide helps support the cells’ metabolic system, specifically fibroblasts. We use fibroblasts to make and repair DNA, which, in turn, activates collagen production. So by using niacinamides to boost fibroblast production, we are supporting collagen production and repairing damaged collagen.”

Lots of products contain niacinamide—serums, moisturizers, even cleansers—and it works well in conjunction with other active ingredients, like retinol. It can be used both morning and night, though as with any good skin care regimen, you should follow it up with a sunscreen during the day.

“Niacinamide should be compatible with most other skin care products and is well tolerated by all skin types, including sensitive skin,” Dr. Lortscher says. For best results, use leave-on products with niacinamide. It’s safe to use around the eyes, and it may improve the appearance of under-eye darkness and wrinkles.”

Convinced yet? Check out a few of our favorite products containing the powerhouse ingredient below.