How to Exfoliate Your Face Safely, According to a Dermatologist

Here’s the thing with exfoliation: it’s addictive. Anyone who has ever experienced the after-glow of a peel pad knows what we’re talking about here. A good exfoliation sesh gets rid of dead skin cells instantly, making pores appear smaller, spots look lighter and gives you an overall refresh better than most products can. So we get hooked. And we exfoliate. And we exfoliate some more, which can lead to a host of other issues like redness and sensitivity.

If you're wondering how to exfoliate your face without causing irritation, we enlisted the help of a board-certified dermatologist to walk us through the do's and don'ts of exfoliating.

Dr. Y. Claire Chang is a board-certified and fellowship-trained cosmetic dermatologist who provides comprehensive medical and cosmetic dermatologic care for her patients at Union Square Laser Dermatology in New York. Dr. Chang received her Bachelors of Science degree in Biology and her Doctorate of Medicine from the University of Pennsylvania. She completed her internal medicine training at the Washington Hospital Center in Washington, D.C., and subsequently completed a three-year dermatology residency at Boston University. Dr. Chang completed her American Society for Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS)-accredited Cosmetic Dermatologic Surgery Fellowship at UnionDerm, and she continues to perform research and run clinical trials at UnionDerm.

To understand exfoliation, one must know what a keratinocyte is. Keratinocytes are skin cells that are found in the outermost layer of our skin (aka the epidermis). “As the skin continually renews itself, keratinocytes mature and are eventually shed off through a process called desquamation,” explains Chang.

“Exfoliation speeds up the removal of these dead skin cells from the outermost layer of the skin, which can help reveal newer skin cells and can have multiple benefits including brighter skin, improved brown spots, smoother texture, reduction of clogged pores, and improved penetration of other topicals,” says Chang. “However, exfoliating is not for everybody and may not be appropriate for every skin type,” she cautions. “It is important to exfoliate safely to minimize the risk of negative side effects, like redness, irritation, acne breakouts or scarring.”

“Everyone’s skin has different needs and it’s also important to note that those needs can change over time,” says Chang. “In general, I recommend gentle exfoliation no more than two to three times per week.” Here's a general guide to how often you should exfoliate depending on your skin type and experience level:

• If your skin is dry or sensitive, you should exfoliate less frequently, like once every couple of weeks.
• If your skin is oily, you can exfoliate a bit more frequently, like every one to two days.
• If you have never exfoliated before, Dr. Chang recommends starting with once per week and working your way up as tolerated by your skin type.

“I would avoid exfoliating your skin if there is an open wound, active infection, or any inflammation like acne or an eczema flare,” warns Chang. “Also, if your skin becomes red, inflamed, irritated or peels as a result of exfoliating, stop and consult your dermatologist for alternative options.”

Another thing: Make sure you take any other skincare products you’re currently using (like retinoids or benzoyl peroxide) into consideration. These products, when combined with too much exfoliation, can disrupt your skin barrier, which keeps irritants out and is responsible for maintaining skin hydration and health.

“There are two methods of exfoliation at-home: mechanical and chemical,” explains Chang. “Mechanical exfoliation involves using a cleansing tool or scrub to physically remove dead skin cells.” The most common forms of mechanical exfoliation are:

• Micro-bead facial scrubs
• Sugar or salt crystals
• Abrasive materials like pumice, sponges, or cleansing brushes

“Chemical exfoliation involves chemicals, like alpha and beta-hydroxy acids, to dissolve and loosen dead skin cells,” says Chang. The three main chemical exfoliators that are used are:

• Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) which include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid. “AHAs are naturally occurring acids that are present in many foods and milk sugars, as well as, produced synthetically. They promote exfoliation by breaking down the adhesion between the skin cells in the epidermis,” explains Chang.
• Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid are fat-soluble, allowing them to penetrate deeper into the hair follicles and dissolve pore-clogging residue like oil, which makes them ideal for people with oily skin and acne.
• Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are a new generation of alpha-hydroxy acids that have similar effects but with less irritation. “PHAs, like lactobionic acid and gluconolactone, have a larger molecular structure than other AHAs, limiting their ability to penetrate the skin and thereby reducing the side effects,” says Chang. “PHAs have been clinically proven to provide skin-smoothing and anti-aging benefits that are comparable to alpha-hydroxy acids, while also hydrating the skin.”

Dr. Chang generally recommends chemical exfoliators over physical (or mechanical) exfoliators. “Physical exfoliators often cause excessive irritation and worsen skin conditions, like acne,” she explains.

Before you shop her top picks below, we’d like to offer a final tip on exfoliating: Make sure you use a daily sunscreen, as studies have shown that chemical exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids can make the skin more sensitive to UV radiation.

Now, where were we?