What Are the Best Oils for Acne? Here are 5 Facial and Essential Oils Recommended by Dermatologists

Acne is a four-letter word that brings to mind several other four-letter words. If you’re one of the 50 million people who are affected by breakouts in the United States, we have some assistance ahead.

Dr. Ife Rodney, a board-certified medical and cosmetic dermatologist and founding director of Eternal Dermatology in Fulton, MD, and Dr. Howard Sobel, founder of Sobel Skin and Attending Dermatologist and Dermatologic Surgeon at Lenox Hill Hospital in New York are here to explain the causes and best treatments for acne (as well as offer their thoughts on whether or not facial and essential oils can help).

“Acne occurs when the hair follicles become clogged by excess sebum (oil), bacteria or dead skin cells, which causes inflammation in the skin,” explains Sobel. This can result from using certain products that increase sebum production, from bacteria, or, as is common for women, a change in hormones.

“This type of hormonal acne is tied to fluctuations in estrogen and progesterone during the menstrual cycle and appears as deep cystic, tender bumps, especially along the jawline,” shares Rodney. You know the kind that you feel under the skin and take for-ever to go away? Those guys.

2020 also introduced us to “maskne,” or mask-related acne, which comes courtesy of the protective face masks we’ve been wearing lately. “Maskne occurs when bacteria build up inside of your mask and clogs your pores. This results in the whiteheads, blackheads, and pimples,” says Sobel. (A reminder here to make sure you wash yours regularly in hot water and have a backup mask at the ready so you can rotate a clean one in before each outing.)

“A lot of people are unaware that dry, sensitive skin is also prone to acne,” adds Rodney. “When this particular skin type becomes irritated, the skin compensates for its dryness by overproducing oil, which clogs the pores and causes acne.”

“There is no one way to treat acne that is going to work for everyone since every person’s skin type and triggers may be different,” says Sobel. “However, there are definitely products and treatments that are more likely to work than others, but it’s important to consult your dermatologist before using a new product, as it can sometimes have an adverse effect when used incorrectly.”

According to Sobel, the most common way to treat acne is to use a topical treatment that works by killing acne-causing bacteria and decreasing oil production. These products typically contain ingredients such as retinoids, benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid. “Your dermatologist may also prescribe an antibiotic topical depending on the frequency and severity of your acne,” he adds.

No matter what you use, consistency is key when it comes to treating acne. “It’s not a one and done thing. Acne is a chronic condition, so whatever medication or skincare products you use, you need to use them for the long haul,” says Rodney.

And if you are experiencing severe acne that isn’t taking to any topical treatments, you should definitely see your dermatologist. He or she can prescribe an oral antibiotic to kill bacteria and decrease inflammation. Birth control pills may also be recommended to treat hormonal acne.

“When you are constantly sleeping on a dirty pillowcase or not taking all of your makeup off at the end of the day, you may be trapping bacteria into your hair follicles causing them to clog,” says Sobel. “Same goes for when you wear a cotton mask without washing it after each use. Any bacteria you are carrying will transfer to the mask and back to your skin.” (Again, because it bears repeating, wash your masks, y’all.)

“We’ve seen some links between acne and diet. Certain high glycemic foods like dairy products, chocolate, and fried foods can worsen or trigger acne,” adds Rodney. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, “while diet may play a role in causing your breakouts or worsening your acne, keeping your skin clear requires more than a diet change. Using acne friendly skin care and acne medication helps to prevent new breakouts.” So, think of diet as one potential piece of the acne puzzle.

“Yes, it is perfectly fine to use facial oils on acne-prone skin, but it depends on the facial oil and the frequency of use,” says Sobel. “There are many oils that are beneficial for your skin, and some facial oils can improve your acne by stabilizing sebum production. They can also work to soothe and heal pimples without causing more breakouts.”

Rodney agrees adding that, “while it is safe to use facial oils on acne-prone skin, be sure to use only a very small amount (a couple drops) on your entire face. The facial oil must also be non-comedogenic, meaning it is not likely to clog your pores.”

And since every person’s skin is different and will react differently, “if you suspect a facial oil is causing more acne flare-ups, discontinue using it immediately,” says Sobel.

Ahead, the three best facial oils for acne-prone skin.

“I don’t recommend using straight essential oils on your face as they can irritate and damage the skin— especially for someone with acne-prone or sensitive skin,” says Sobel. “Additionally, some essential oils and fragrances are known skin irritants and can be an allergen for many people.”

“If an essential oil such as chamomile is listed as a skincare ingredient in one of your products, that can be perfectly fine to use because they are diluted enough or are very gentle,” he clarifies, “but, again, I would steer clear of putting any essential oil in its pure form directly on your skin.”

Shop some safe essential oil blends ahead.