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Little Dipper
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Some food fads are a hard sell. (Looking at you, charcoal juice and buttered coffee.)

Others--say, entire dinners devoted to melted cheese--are not.

That’s why Maman is resurrecting the ’60s fondue night.

The pint-sized Soho café has gained a following for its chocolate-chip cookies (some of the best in the city), cabbage salads and coffee cups that are almost too pretty to drink from.

But it’s the gooey cheese that will really make us regulars. Once a month (for two consecutive nights), Maman stays open late and serves up fondue with all the fixings ($65, prix fixe).

First comes a round of gorgeous little canapés. They’re light, sweet and the perfect lead-in to the main event: a warm pot of three cheeses (Comté, Emmental and Beaufort) with homemade croutons and roasted veggies on the side. (Fact: Brussels sprouts are the world’s best dippers.)

The next dinners are scheduled for February 10 and 11, and spots book up quickly, so email for reservations, like, yesterday.

Maman, 239 Centre St. (at Broome St.); 212-226-0700 or

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