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What’s a San Franciscan got to do to get a good, New York-style bagel? You know, crunchy on the outside and delectably chewy inside? Well, until now, we thought we’d have to import New York City water. But now, Wise Sons Bagel & Bakery enters the game with a real contender.

The baby brother to SF’s two Wise Sons Jewish-style delis, this new grab-and-go spot is the first un-foiled foray into the house-made bagels arena for founders Evan Bloom and Leo Beckerman. (You might recall their never-opened Mission bagel kitchen that burned down one day before launching last year.)

They knew they had big shoes to fill trying to nail the NYC-style bagel in SF, so the duo spent countless hours of rigorous R&D and finally settled on a simple combo of flour, malt powder, salt, water and yeast to make their boiled-then-baked variety. And, of course, we had to try them.

Here’s the breakdown: Wise Sons bagels are smaller and not quite as dense as their NYC counterpart (nothing like the original, baby). But they’re crunchy on the outside and soft and chewy on the inside--as a proper New York bagel should be.

The verdict? Pretty darn good.

Get yours by the dozen, with an assortment of spreads (we recommend an everything bagel with scallion shmear) or in sandwich form. The smoked-trout salad with watermelon radish on a sesame bagel is a delicious salt bomb, and the smoked-salmon open-face is a can’t-go-wrong classic.

1520 Fillmore St.; 415-872-9046 or wisesonsdeli.com/fillmore

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