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It’s the height of Meyer-lemon season (November to March), and we’re dreaming about all the ways we can indulge: marmalades, preserved lemons, zesty salad dressings. For those Meyer virgins out there, the sweet-tart fruit is like a happy marriage between a mandarin orange and a traditional lemon: It tickles your taste buds but doesn’t make your mouth pucker.

So we tapped executive chef Ryder Zetts at Archetype in Napa (known for using local, seasonal ingredients) for his decadent lemon-ricotta pancake recipe and then adapted it to take advantage of Meyer lemons while they’re at their peak.

Archetype, 1429 Main St., St. Helena; 707-968-9200 or archetypenapa.com

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