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Waihike Island Yacht Club
Waiheke Island Yacht Club's tartare. Photo courtesy of Virginia Miller.

The fashion world isn?t the only place where the ?80s are making a comeback (witness the revival of Members Only jackets and fanny packs). One of the power-lunch decade?s defining dishes--tartare--is having a major moment at restaurants all around town. Recently deemed the dish of the year by Bon Appétit, the raw stuff is inspiring some SF chefs to serve up crazy-creative iterations.

The zestiest Over at Acquerello?s casual little sister, 1760, there?s a lively Thai-influenced tartare ($16), made from organic Snake River Farms beef mixed with chiles and herbs and served over a spread of Marcona almonds and coconut milk.

The richest The New Zealand-influenced pop-up Waiheke Island Yacht Club serves a remarkably silky venison tartare ($16), served with plump oysters, radishes and freshly grated horseradish.

The smokiest Head north to Healdsburg?s hot new dining destination, Chalkboard, for a Snake River Farms beef tartare tossed with a quail egg yolk ($11) and enlivened by subtle heat from Calabrian chiles, celery hearts and smoked salt.

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