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Much of the modern food Miles Thompson serves at Allumette in Los Angeles is too complicated for home cooks to master. Fortunately, Thompson let us in on a little secret: The mousse-like coffee milk mascarpone that appears on his red velvet cake is easy to make and good enough to eat solo by the spoonful. (Thompson, for one, admitted to eating it while standing in front of the fridge at 2 a.m.) We whipped up a batch, then served it simply as an airy mousse with store-bought ladyfingers on the side.
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