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We’re familiar with the waste-not approach of nose-to-tail cooking, in which chefs use “everything but the oink” on their menus. It took a chat with chef Joel Somerstein, however, for us to realize we could apply that same philosophy to root-vegetable cookery. At the high-end Soho kosher restaurant, he roasts sweet baby carrots and serves them with an inventive almond-carrot top pesto; the bright sauce prevents those feathery green tops from ending up in the compost bin and gives an autumn-appropriate side dish a whole new look.
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