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Dressing like a cool French girl? We’re working on it. Eating like a cool French girl? That we can most definitely master. The trick: You don’t actually have to scream over the crowds at Balthazar.

Make a rezzie and relax at Chicane immédiatement.

The sun-faded color palette and buttery-soft banquettes are an ideal match for the weathered cobblestones of Crosby Street. Take advantage of the new corner spot at Broome for dim-lit dates or Pouilly-Fuissé-addled life talks with your best friend. (The booths are seriously so comfortable; we sat there for four hours and never even noticed.)

As for the food, choose from a tight list of traditional French Riviera dishes. Crispy chard fritters, delicately seared tuna and fragrant ratatouille were among our favorites. But whatever you do, you must order the rice croquettes to start. It doesn’t get much better than piping-hot truffles in your face.

Chicane, 430 Broome St. (at Crosby St.); 212-226-5999 or

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