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Where has this been all our lives?

Confession: When we heard there was yet another toppings-bar concept (à la froyo, falafel, even oatmeal) coming to town, we thought, Been there, ate that. But then we realized this one involves hot, gooey cheese and everything changed.

Enter Potatopia.

Tucked in a small storefront on Sixth Avenue in the West Village, it may look like just another fast-food joint. But it’s actually everything its pun intends.

First, you choose the type of potato (baked, smashed, fried and the like). Then you load up on veggies, cheeses (yes, plural), a protein and a sauce to create a serious bowl of melted goodness. Our tip: Let the staff help you navigate the menu. You may think you have a handle on this type of choose-your-own-adventure ordering, but trust us, it can be overwhelming at first.

For our inaugural creation, we went with the au gratin potatoes and added scallions, cilantro, pepper-jack cheese, Cajun shrimp and chipotle aioli. Needless to say, there were inappropriate noises. Curly fries, we’re coming for you next.

Potatopia, 378 Sixth Ave. (at Waverly Pl.); 212-260-4100 or

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