In a town brimming with incredible dining options, restaurateurs are faced with a basic challenge: Is it best to perfect the classics, or to try something totally new?

Johnny Swet and Larry Poston (most recently known for Jimmy in Soho) aren’t ones to take sides.

Their latest joint, Rogue & Canon, does it all--one menu of perfect pub favorites and another with some unexpected twists.

In a simple mood? Go for the Canon. We started with a spot-on Sazerac ($13), an addictive plate of deviled eggs ($5), some creamy, ale-twinged Welsh rarebit (a hot, cheesy spread for toast, $8) and a steaming pile of Moules Frites ($20).

But it’s never fun to behave for too long, and soon we had to go Rogue. We loved this menu’s inventive cocktails, like the Smoke and Honey (tequila and mezcal with a grilled, frozen lemon, $13) and the refreshing Marmaduke (which pairs grapefruit and pumpernickel for a surprising breakfast-like taste, $13).

Nothing could prepare us, though, for the outrageous Rogue Burger ($16), which comes topped with crispy pork belly, aged cheddar, onion marmalade and…peanut butter. Hardly a standard, but at Rogue & Canon, that’s just the point--at least half the time, anyway.

128 W. Houston St. (at Sullivan St.); 646-398-8700 or rogueandcanon.com

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