Arlington Club
Arlington Club's cote de boeuf and truffle fries

The New York steakhouse is as timeless as the Chrysler Building. But even that needs a polish every now and then.

Enter Arlington Club, a new collaboration between chef and partner Laurent Tourondel and TAO Group that lends a modern touch to the classic cuisine.

Gone are the dark wood panels and leather armchairs of yesteryear: This two-level Upper East Side space (once François Payard?s) is open and airy with the exposed beams and grand arches of an old European rail station.

Tourondel, famous for launching the BLT brand, does standards well, with starters like a wonderfully garlicky clams casino ($18), a tangy filet mignon carpaccio ($16) and a must-have smoky Gouda mac and cheese ($9). The real showstoppers, though, are the innovative sushi rolls, recommended as a middle course. We loved the artfully stacked Osaka-style spicy tuna ($16) and the crispy Kobe-beef-and-truffle roll ($16), an apt steakhouse hybrid.

But let's not forget about the main event. Arlington Club?s steaks are dry-aged and generous (the smallest runs 10 ounces). For a dramatic flair, try the côte de boeuf for two ($110), which is carved tableside and served with a pile of truffle-scented frites that feels as grand as Gotham itself.

1032 Lexington Ave. (between 73rd and 74th sts.); 212-249-5700 or arlingtonclubny.com

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