Keeping the focus on what the team does best, the eatery went for simplicity in decor with a long white bar and a handful of small tables. It only seemed right that we start our evening with a three-cheese flight ($14): After we suggested our preferred textures to the monger, he returned with his recommendations, noting the geographic origins and prominent flavors such as the apple-brandy notes in the slice of the aptly named Little Big Apple, or the rosemary and thyme in the rich and buttery Hudson Flower.
Our entrée was a no-brainer: classic mac and cheese. But Murray’s take on the baked favorite went even beyond our high expectations with a lush blend of Tickler English cheddar, cave-aged Gruyère, mozzarella di bufala and tasso ham, all topped with fried onions ($12).
Despite our magnificent cheese coma, we already have our eye on the grilled melt ($12) and fondue ($14 for two) for next time.
264 Bleecker St. (at Morton St.); 646-476-8882 or murrayscheesebar.com