Refusing to follow the candy-and-cow's-milk credo of traditional ice cream shops, Sophia Brittan has stocked her newly opened store, Victory Garden, with freshly picked fruit and Liddabit candied honeycomb to top her just-sweet-enough goat's-milk soft-serve.

The French Culinary Institute grad opened the shop after sampling goat's milk yogurt at Connecticut goat dairy Beltane Farm, where she realized that goat's milk would make fabulous ice cream too. Brittan sources all of her milk from Beltane and buys seasonal ingredients--like berries for her strawberry-rhubarb-jam topping--from New York City farmer's markets. As a result, the soft-serve is lower in fat and calories than traditional versions and loaded with vitamins and protein.

We're currently loving the far-flung options on the seasonal menu: The coffee soft-serve is infused with Ethiopian grinds, while the rose-petal flavor is delicately perfumed with floral water. Our favorite, though, is the mellow Victory chocolate (top it with crumbled halva, a Middle Eastern sesame-seed candy that adds a salty crunch).

Victory Garden also sells lotions and lip balm made with goat's milk, but in our opinion it's best to apply it to your lips frozen and by the spoonful.

Victory Garden, 31 Carmine St. (between Bleecker and Bedford sts.); 212-206-7273 or victorygardennyc.com.

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