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Jezebel
Jezebel interior; Larry David as "American Pastoral" copyright Chana Blumes

From the pickled herring at Kutscher?s to sustainable gefilte fish at the Hester Street Fair, it?s hard to deny New York?s recent Jewish food renaissance. But sexy kosher cuisine? The concept seems like an oxymoron.

Not so, proves the new Soho restaurant Jezebel, which serves up high-end, seasonal kashruth fare out of a swank townhouse.

Upon entering, guests are met with a playful hodgepodge of glitz and kitsch: The downstairs bar is adorned with ?Jewishly augmented? portraiture--Barbra Streisand as the Girl with a Pearl Earring, Jon Stewart as Napoleon--and a typical weekday crowd consists of both New York and Israeli high society (Rabbi Yona Metzger was there the night we stopped by).

But the innovative food and beverages, courtesy of Café Boulud alum Bradford Thompson, are clearly the highlight. In addition to an impressive wine list, Jezebel features all-kosher cocktails ($18) that are worth nursing (we like the spicy lavender Kosha Nostra). Standout starters include roasted bone marrow over pickled onions ($18) and lamb agnolotti ($19) with grated almond that could almost pass for a not-so-kosher Parmesan dusting.

Our favorite entrée is definitely the hearty lamb burger ($26), which is so flavorful you wouldn?t want to add cheese even if you could.

Jezebel, 323 West Broadway (between Canal and Grand sts.); 646-410-0717

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