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Sushi joints may be a dime a dozen here in New York, but for a serious seafood excursion, hit up the West Village’s new resident, Neta.

Upscale sushi alums Nick Kim (former head chef at Masa) and Jimmy Lau (former head chef at Bar Masa) craft simple yet extravagant small plates, sashimi and rolls--all with fish sourced from surrounding waters. A long maple bar and exposed stainless-steel kitchen make for a minimalist atmosphere, allowing the focus to remain solely on the main event, the food.

First, we tried the Dungeness crab with cucumber, wild parsley and dashi vinaigrette ($18), and indulged in king mushrooms dotted with spicy pommes frites and serrano peppers ($9). And although we’re partial to the standby spicy tuna roll, we decided next to branch out and sample the signature Neta roll, stuffed with toro (the primo cut of the tuna) and scallions ($28). The miso tofu avocado roll ($9) was a refreshing veggie addition (and is one of more than ten vegetable roll options for those who pass on seafood).

The restaurant’s real showstopper, however, is the omakase selection, comprised of the chef’s daily choice ($95 a person, or $135 to include caviar and uni). The finest available ingredients (this is what the word neta means) are served in several courses, similar to those on the menu but with special, seasonal twists--making it perfect for a celebratory occasion.

61 W. Eighth St. (between Fifth and Sixth aves.); 212-505-2610 or netanyc.com

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