Since it opened in 2006, Bill Telepan's beloved, eponymous restaurant has been among our favorite pre- or post-Lincoln Center dinner spots.

But for the next three weeks, Telepan is serving up something slightly different with his new pop-up, Telepan Tribeca, operating out of Tribeca's Pecan Café.

The pop-up concept--which demands that chefs step outside their comfort zones--is natural for Telepan, who is much lauded for his experimenting and improvisation with seasonal, locally grown food. The $45, four-course menu is similar to that of the brick-and-mortar restaurant (if perhaps slightly simpler). And while they wouldn't reveal all of their secrets just yet, highlights of the first two weeks include a veal-meatball amuse bouche, a crab salad with carrot slaw, lamb with ramps and fennel, and a rhubarb streusel tart.

The vibe at Pecan is very downtown coffeehouse--think exposed brick and high, industrial ceilings--which appealed to Telepan, who was looking for a more relaxed locale than that of his bustling uptown restaurant.

The temporary Telepan operates Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays, from 6:30 to 10:30 p.m., with one interesting wrinkle--they're not taking reservations. While this egalitarian approach guarantees that tickets won't sell out ahead of time, we suggest you go early or late, so as to avoid the inevitable prime-time lines.

Telepan Tribeca, 130 Franklin St. (at Varick St.) 212-580-4300 or telepan-ny.com

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