On a steamy July evening out, what’s the first thing you order? Ceviche, obviously. It’s light, it’s cold, it’s the perfect appetizer.

But the citrusy seafood dish no longer has to be a special (ahem, expensive) starter at a sit-down spot.

Get it for lunch at Cevich, a new grab-and-go restaurant.

Like most convenient-eating spots these days (remember Indikitch?), a handful of ordering options are centered on the central concept. If you’re going for simple seafood (alone or atop greens, coconut rice or quinoa), you can choose from shrimp, salmon, tilapia or ahi tuna, and then pick the preparation style: with traditional Peruvian leche de tigre, with a sweet-and-spicy Asian sauce, with Mediterranean olives and feta, and the like. (As refreshing as our Gulf shrimp bowl was, the best part was the complimentary side of seasoned popcorn--a common Peruvian combo.)

Or, if you’re feeling a little more adventurous, try one of the burritos. We thought it sounded strange at first, too, but holy chipotle mayo, it was tasty.

For our next trip: It’s on, Ecuadorian shrimp tacos.

Cevich, 21 E. 15th St. (between Union Square W. and Fifth Ave.); 212-242-4976 or cevich.com

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