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Lobster rolls make life worth living. We will go to the ends of the island (state, Eastern Seaboard, you name it) to settle into the quaint vibe of a summer seafood shack.

But now we only have to go to 41st Street.

North River Lobster Company has all the charm of a roadside stand--but in a three-story boat on Pier 81, serving up the likes of watermelon gazpacho (might we add: with feta), grilled corn, fresh oysters, Maine crab claws and, of course, that mouthwatering, buttery roll.

Here’s how it’s really different from Frying Pan, though: The boat sails four times a day (at 12, 3, 6 and 9 p.m.) for 45-minute jaunts along the Hudson. In the interest of time, it tours only up the West Side (not the harbor), but considering you’d normally be tethered to the dock, it’s pretty delightful.

We stole away for a long weekday lunch to try it out (when it was fairly empty) and can only imagine how packed this place must be on weekends. Our advice: Test the waters in the daytime first, plan your visit around one of the sails and revel in the glory that is June.

North River Lobster Company, Pier 81, 41st St. and 12th Ave.; 212-630-8831 or

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