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Brooklyn Hemispherical's spicy charred pineapple bitters; Mango Sriracha cocktail made with sriracha bitters

From the classic Angostura to new artisanal brands, bitters are a barkeep’s salt and pepper. And now that savvy companies are making versions that appeal to our ladylike tastes, we’re eager to expand our own collection.

Here, a pick for every palate.

Fruity Brooklyn Hemispherical Bitters makes seasonally driven bitters with fruit-forward flavors like rhubarb, Meyer lemon and black mission fig ($18). Nearby, Bitter’s, Old Men taps papaya to make tiki-bar-perfect papaya bitters ($10), which are delicious drizzled over fresh fruit.

Floral L.A.-based Bitter Tears sets their lavender bitters ($15 to $20) apart by incorporating sweet elderberries and a hint of ginger into the secret recipe. Try them in a gin martini or swirled into sorbet. On the opposite coast, hibiscus flowers give Bittermens’ Burlesque Bitters ($18) a floral lift. The Brooklyn-made bitters play well with genever, pisco and even tequila.

Gently Spiced Among their savory-leaning flavors, Santa Fe’s The Bitter End produces complex curry bitters ($24) made with a veritable spice rack of ingredients. And in Seattle, Scrappy’s Bitters makes cardamom the star in refined cardamom bitters ($18 to $25), which work equally well in a rum-based cocktail (we’re kind of obsessed with The Elegant Spice) or a chocolate mousse.

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