We?re pretty much in love with Susan Feniger, the local chef who?s taught us to appreciate Asian and Mexican flavors in her cookbooks, TV show and in her restaurants. So when we heard her bistro Street and its menu full of global street food was closing, we mourned the loss of her trademark zest (and her signature veggie burger).
But wait, she?s back. Just a month after closing Street, Feniger has opened Mud Hen Tavern--named after a Toledo, Ohio, baseball team she loved as a kid--in its former space. The place is devoted to American comfort food, but Feniger has used her quirky palate to intriguingly tweaked the classics.
The fries (we ate two bowls, btw) are thin, spice-dusted and served with spicy aioli. Green eggs and ham is a plate of deviled eggs with green chile-salsa and crispy bacon. Along with onion rings with cracked-pepper-ranch dressing, these little ditties cost only $4 from 4 until 7 p.m.
So the next time you?re caught in Hollywood rush-hour traffic, opt instead to drop off the grid. Toss your keys to the valet behind the restaurant, then relax at the bar with a craft beer (try locally made Wolf Among Weeds) and some small plates. And don?t forget to say hi to Feniger, who?ll be checking to make sure her new bistro is boffo.
Mud Hen Tavern, 742 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood; 323-203-0500 or facebook/mudhentavern