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A coddled egg is served over pureed potatoes at Eggslut.

We imagine downtown as the setting for a weekly TV series--call it “DTLA: Foodie Edition.” That’s because it seems as if some great new lunch or dinner spot is continually opening or being named America’s best.

Now the culinary gold rush has overtaken breakfast, too, with the opening of the improbably named Eggslut two weeks ago. The counter at the Broadway entrance of Grand Central Market starts serving its elevated versions of classic breakfast fare at 8 a.m. daily.

There’s the Bacon, Egg and Cheese ($6), in which hardwood-smoked bacon, an over-medium egg and cheddar are slathered with chipotle ketchup in a brioche bun. (The bread’s baked on-site--it’s the kind of place you smell before you see.) The Fairfax, a brioche bun full of soft-scrambled eggs, chives, cheddar, caramelized onions and Sriracha mayo ($7), is reason enough to get up in the morning.

But our favorite, the Slut, a coddled egg on top of a smooth potato puree, poached in a glass jar and served with toasty crostini ($9), is the stuff dreams are made of; Ruth Reichl praised its gray-sea-salt crunch and snappy chives, and we recommend cutting its ultra-richness with an accompanying arugula side salad ($2.50). Breakfast of champions, indeed.

Eggslut, 317 S. Broadway;

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