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Ray's and Stark Bar
Iskilde water from Denmark has interesting earthy notes which pair well with agnolotti

The pressure’s on: Besides your appetizer, entrée and wine, now there’s another choice to make in fine dining--which of 20 bottled waters will best complement your meal.

Wait, before you roll your eyes, think of how this will liven up your designated driver status. 

At Ray’s and Stark Bar, the upscale restaurant at LACMA, prepare to be handed three menus: one detailing the food, from the wood-fired oven pizzas to the small plates of hamachi; then the list of creative cocktails; and finally...a 45-page water menu.  

Each page pictures the water and includes its provenance, mineral content and a flavor rating. (Is it closer to sweet or salty? Smooth or complex?) Selections (or should we say vintages?) range from $8 for a sodium-rich carbonated Eaux de Saint Geron to $20 for a Berg glacial water from Greenland that is just divine with the halibut.

Confused? Don’t worry, you can ask for a pairing suggestion from the general manager Martin Riese, who doubles as a water sommelier. Hey, we can’t promise his recommendations will make you as happy as the cocktails, but if you’re driving, live a little and take an exotic plunge.

Ray’s and Stark Bar at LACMA, 5905 Wilshire Blvd.; 323-857-6180 or patinagroup.com

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