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Leave it to a place on trendy Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice to reinvent the humble delicatessen. At recently opened Local 1205, the shopping-and-sandwiching experience really peaks.

First up, there's the space: exposed wood trusses, skylights and artfully worn antique European dining and display tables. It's Anthropologie as food market.

Next, there's the packaged and fresh foodstuffs: organic fruits and vegetables and eclectic products that range from California-made Two Moms in the Raw gluten-free goji-berry granola ($10) to T.D. Grissini breadsticks ($9) from Turin, and from food-snob favorite TCHO chocolate squares ($1) to classics like Sugar Daddy bars ($2). There's even a deli counter with sable and cold cuts from Katz's Deli in New York.

On-the-spot diners can enjoy mason jars of cold-pressed juices (from $7) or energizing smoothies such as banana, acai, guarana and almond milk ($9). And sandwiches (from $7) include made-to-order melts with soppressata, prosciutto and fontina or roasted veggies with goat cheese.

On our most recent visit, we caught ourselves bopping along to Arcade Fire playing overhead, not even missing the halvah we're usually ordering in traditional Jewish delis. A visit to Local 1205 is sweet enough.

Local 1205, 1205 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; 310-396-6663 or

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