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In New York, people flock to estiatorios like Milos and Avra for simple preparations like grilled whole fish and spectacular tomato salads: In a beach setting, the healthy Mediterranean fare is even more appealing.

Nammos, which opened in Southampton this spring, is housed in a large white room with soaring ceilings and a bleached mahogany bar. A display table shows off glistening local catch, along with imported favorites like lavraki and fagri.

Grilled octopus ($22) is as tender as any we’ve tried, and apart from Greek staples there are adventurous offerings like feta cheese, warmed in a clay pot with poached figs, Muscat wine and kalamata olives, then sprinkled with fresh mint ($15); and charred lamb chops resting on couscous salad and enlivened with caramelized tomato gravy and wasabi tzatziki ($40).

When you have finished your last bite of baklava, you won’t have to go far to work it off. Do as the Greeks do and start to dance: There’s a back lounge area that opens up to outdoor cabanas; DJs spin Thursdays through Sundays.

Nammos, 136 Main St., Southampton; 631-287-5500 or nammossouthampton.com

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