There?s a certain kind of ephemerality involved in a pop-up restaurant.

You might absolutely fall in love with your whole dining experience--the fab meal, the attentive service, the amazing ambience--and then you try to go back and...whaddya know, it?s no longer there.

Rest assured, Kitchen LTO (?limited time only?) isn?t a love you and leave you kind of place.

Yes, it?s a pop-up concept, but it?s also a permanent restaurant, meaning the chef, menu and interior change every four months, but the physical building and management stay the same.

This first incarnation sees chef Norman Grimm (Acme F&B and York Street) cooking up French-inspired dishes like a rabbit confit salad ($13) and sweetbreads ($15). But he leaves room for more mainstream fare like crispy-skin chicken ($19)--from Vital Farms, natch--diver scallops ($25) and braised short ribs ($28).

And we?re already excited about chef number two, who will be picked in the next few months, pending the outcome of an Iron Chef-worthy cook-off.

Kitchen LTO, 3011 Gulden Lane, Suite 108; 214-377-0757 or kitchenlto.com

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