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In 2011, the The Village Voice named Le Bilboquet one of the 10 most pretentious restaurants in New York.

And now, lucky Dallas diners have the chance to eat the same famous Cajun chicken the now-shuttered Upper East Side joint served for 27 years. Indeed, a new incarnation of the restaurant (with the same chef and much of the same management) has opened on Travis Walk. We couldn’t resist determining on our own if it’s as stuffy as its New York predecessor.

Stuffy: “Sparkling or still?” one of our servers asked at the beginning of the meal. We said “still,” thinking Dallas tap water. Instead, a large Evian bottle ($7) was delivered to the table.

Not Stuffy: The restaurant’s nearly all-male staff (save for one female hostess) was polite and friendly, frequently asking how our meal was proceeding.

Stuffy: The occasionally fussy food was good but didn’t seem to justify the high price point. While the $24 Cajun chicken (tasty, juicy spiced breast with a cream sauce) was as good as they say, the grilled branzino ($29) struck us as inexpertly deboned and more fried than grilled.

Not Stuffy: The french fries: magnifique.

Le Bilboquet, 4514 Travis St., Suite 124; 469-730-2937

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