Hummus gets the Paleo treatment at HG Sply Co.

We’re always impressed with the die-hard dieters among us. (No, doing Atkins for two and a half days doesn’t count.)

But we’re also suspicious of restaurants that claim to be diet-friendly for fear that they’re, well, bad.

That’s why we were thrilled to discover HG Sply Co., an esoterically named new Paleo Diet-oriented restaurant that’s actually really, truly great.

For those who don’t know what the Paleo Diet is, it focuses on meat, plants and nuts--the foods our Paleolithic caveman ancestors presumably ate. HG Sply Co. adheres to these tenets but also allows you to bend the rules. (Twenty percent of its menu comprises “cheat foods” such as blue cheese and tortilla chips.)

But most interesting is what they can do within the confines of the Paleo ethos. The pulled-pork sandwich ($11) is a decadently bright mix of pork-belly bacon and apple slaw, topped with an umami house barbecue sauce. And the ginger-garlic hummus ($9) is freshly rendered with cucumber and jicama, not to mention enhanced by the crispy bacon chips.

Wash the whole thing down with a house cocktail such as the Double Under ($10), a turbinado-syrup-based marvel of beet-infused tequila and ginger beer.

All of which makes for a satisfying meal our ancestors would surely endorse.

HG Sply Co., 2008 Greenville Ave.; 469-334-0896

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