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Here's hoping John Tesar will be our chef...and that smoked sturgeon is on the menu.

Underground supper clubs are nice in theory, but the concept kind of strikes us as a little too twee.

Enter Twenty at the Tower, a temporary restaurant that deftly defies hipster preconceptions--open every Sunday and Monday night from now through July 29 in downtown Fort Worth.

The 20-night event features a slate of top-notch chefs who have thoroughly earned their coolness cred. But just who is cooking in the kitchen on any given night is a surprise. The chef is not announced until you?re already seated for dinner at one of the family-style tables.

An amuse-bouche, if you will, of what you can expect:

BYOB Each Friday before the week?s dinners, the organizers--the Fort Worth Food & Wine Festival--will announce via Facebook the scheduled menus, which is particularly useful since the event is BYOB and you?ll want to grab a bottle (or four) en route.

Top Toques From Top Chef contestant John Tesar (Spoon Bar & Kitchen) to Scott Gottlich (Bijoux) to Blaine Staniford (Grace), many of the participating chefs run white-tablecloth restaurants--but that?s not to say the evening will be stuffy. We love chef Kevin Martinez?s straightforward sushi at Tokyo Cafe, and if Juan Rodriguez?s Reata tenderloin tamales are on the menu, well, that?s a surprise we?d definitely welcome.

Twenty at the Tower, 500 Throckmorton St., Fort Worth; fortworthfoodandwinefestival.com

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