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Let’s face it: Our city hardly leads the pack in the late-night dining field.

So when a new 24-hour restaurant opens its doors, we’re apt to pay attention, not to mention pay a wee-hours visit. So we recently hopped on over to Pop Diner to check in on the week-old West Village haunt--and we promptly fell in love with its cheeseburgers, crinkle-cut fries and ’80s-era kitsch.

Under the shining visages (really, they’re pop-art prints) of Punky Brewster, Ferris Bueller and Kevin Arnold of The Wonder Years, we admittedly struggled to place our orders, given the diner’s extensive menu. 

But on our trip we went traditional, ordering iconic diner fare like the In-N-Out-esque Imitator ($8), a double cheeseburger slathered with a Thousand Island-like secret sauce. Our cholesterol levels probably skyrocketed, but the luscious lamb-and-beef gyro topped with a cucumber sauce and served on naan bread ($7.50) was worth every point. We exercised some restraint and decided to hold off on the boozy adult milkshakes (think Jameson and flavored-vodka versions) until our next visit.

It was fitting that Glenn Frey’s 1985 hit “You Belong to the City” was playing on the restaurant’s sound system: Pop Diner certainly belongs here.

Pop Diner, 3600 McKinney Ave., Dallas; 214-599-8980

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