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Photo courtesy Joy Zhang

A Champagne brunch sounds delightful.

But the one at Bowery Dallas has gone to the dogs. The hot dog, that is.

The eatery serves upscale hot dogs, successfully upending that oxymoron while offering terrific locavore-leaning food in a fast-casual setting. Owners Tiffanee and Richard Ellman (co-owners of Oak restaurant) and John Paul Valverde (co-owner of Campo) took the name for their new venture from New York City?s Bowery district, believed to be the first place hot dogs were sold in America.

Brunch is served Sundays (starting at 11 a.m.) and features cocktails like Champagne sangria alongside grass-fed, globally influenced organic dogs. All of the sausages, except the all-beef hot dogs, are made in-house. From the Moroccan dog (merguez sausage with harissa and apricot slaw, $8.50) to the Duo of Duck dog (duck sausage, seared foie gras, blueberry jam and scallions, $18), the creations here are vibrant with unusual flavors.

There are also luscious choices like the Croque Madame (Paris ham, béchamel, Swiss cheese and a fried egg, $8) and what might be the ultimate menace to bikini season: the Overstuffed Dutchman (served on a baguette with waffle fries, bacon, chives and a smoked gouda sauce, $9).

One thing is for sure: These dogs are going where no dog has gone before.

Bowery Dallas, 3407 McKinney Ave., Dallas; 214-965-9110

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