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The two sides of Hibiscus
Gnocchi done right.

We thought we knew all the dining haunts on Henderson. The hand-stretched pies. The varieties of Mexican ceviche. And those juicy chicken buckets.

Then we heard that local chef Graham Dodds (formally of Bolsa) shook things up on the menu at Hibiscus, and we had to see for ourselves. The new menu? Well, it mixes modern chophouse style with local and seasonal ingredients.

First, there?s the seasonal angle: Dodds sources his food from local vendors like Eden?s Garden, then cooks the fresh ingredients to perfection in dishes like carrot-ginger soup ($9) and crispy okra tossed with cucumbers, tomatoes and Calabrian chiles ($11).

Then there?s the chophouse angle: The lamb rib meat ($15) seriously falls off the bone and the 12-ounce tenderloin ($52) is prepared without the pomp and circumstance we?ve seen at other joints lately--just a beautiful cut of meat, cooked to order and served without a demiglace, sauce or topping.

On our most recent visit, we opted for the Wagyu oxtail ($30), which is prepared like pot roast but served with crispy gnocchi and an arugula pesto for a taste reminiscent of old-world Italy.

Who says you can?t have it all?

Hibiscus, 2927 N. Henderson Ave.; 214-827-2927 or

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