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Real simple: Fresh fish shines at Kinmont.

Fish is something we usually have to pep-talk ourselves into ordering. (We mean, why would anyone choose anything over an outrageous hamburger or giant steak?)??

Not so at the new seafood spot Kinmont in River North, where you can do the right thing by eating responsibly sourced fish and go nuts over the city?s best dinner rolls. ??

In Kinmont?s clubby dining room (think hexagonal parquet wall paneling and oriental rugs suspended from the ceiling), the first thing we tried was the Parker House rolls with house-cultured butter ($2), which were basically supersoft, browned-on-top, pull-apart goodness.??

Next, we ordered cobia ($24) from Kinmont?s rotating selection of ?rough fish,? or species that aren?t commonly caught or eaten. The mild, firm fish has a texture similar to sturgeon and was served with olive oil, lemon and parsley. It was an interesting change of pace from the ubiquitous salmon and halibut.?

Then there was the real catch of the night: Fish & chips ($18) made with lightly battered, sustainable Lake Superior whitefish--even flakier than traditional cod--and served with (what else?) crunchy fries and tartar sauce. ??

If that?s what it takes to help improve the world?s waterways, we?ll eat it every day.??

Kinmont, 419 W. Superior St.; 312-915-0011 or

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