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At most coffee shops, we’ll shell out for the perfectly roasted cup of java if it’s good enough to distract from depressing music and questionable “vintage” couches. Ideally, though, we’d stir our Ethiopian-grown, nicely foamed cappuccino in a chic vintage-industrial setting with, say, Andrew Bird whistling in the background.

Enter Bow Truss, a new Lakeview coffee shop designed for those who’d rather sip and savor than plug in and tune out. (Caveat: There’s no Wi-Fi here--yet.) The roaster celebrated the opening of its retail area last week, and the space is a minimalist complement to the gorgeous bow truss–clad roasting operation in back.

There are concrete floors painted a minty grandma green and an entrance flanked by burlap bags of beans, but the real show is in those exposed trusses awash in sun from a gigantic skylight.

Our $2.75 cappucino was so good, we didn't add sugar; the fresh-roasted beans without a hint of char taste spoke for themselves. The menu is well-edited (drip and espresso, cappuccinos and macchiatos; vanilla lattes and hot chocolate will be offered soon), and a rotating selection of beans are also for sale ($11 to $16), displayed in a sawed-off canoe turned upright for shelving.

It’s just quirky enough to love.

Bow Truss, 2934 N. Broadway;

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