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Bang Bang Pie Shop
Fresh from the oven: Bang Bang Pie Shop's Chocolate Chess.

Whoever said pie is the new cupcake was dead wrong. The two desserts are such polar opposites--cakey vs. crusty, cutesy vs. rustic, wrappers vs. pans--that our verdict on the topic is as simple as this: We have room for both.

This month marks the entrance of a new contender in the pie category, Logan Square?s Bang Bang Pie Shop, which operated for about a year as a food truck before settling on its just-opened brick-and-mortar location. (As it turned out, serving slices of pie from a truck wasn?t the most logistically effective idea.)

We stopped in for a slice last week and ended up with three thoughtful flavors: the velvety, super-intense Chocolate Chess topped with sea salt and a blood-orange drizzle; the silky, sky-high Banana Cream; and the surprising Shaker with big chunks of sugar-macerated Meyer lemons and an impressive double crust. Slices are $5 and cut to order--or take a whole pie for $26 and be a popular dinner-party guest.

Other reasons we stuck around at Bang Bang for an hour? Delicious coffee that?s roasted in-house, sun pouring across our table as we watched the owners shape pie crusts behind the counter and charming French music playing over the speakers.

Très magnifique.

Bang Bang Pie Shop, 2051 N. California Ave.; 773-276-8888 or bangbangpies.com

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