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Urban Union
Brunch schnitzel at Urban Union.

Two tantalizing words: brunch schnitzel. That was all it took to point our noses south toward the most interesting new brunch menu in the city, at Urban Union, the 65-seat and non-Italian Little Italy restaurant that opened in January.

Brunch at Urban Union--served on Sundays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.--isn't your typical collection of fruity French toasts and hangover hash browns. It's a refined, determinedly savory menu for the grown-up bruncher: There's a raw bar stocked with fresh shellfish, and entrées like roast porchetta with garlic rapini ($18) and whole snapper with Thai-inspired "boom boom" sauce ($28). (And if you did happen to imbibe the night before, it's nothing a $4 Bloody Mary oyster shooter can't cure.)

Then there's the schnitzel ($15): Crispy and hot, perched on house-made bread, topped with a duck egg and smothered in hollandaise, it is sinfully satisfying and our new favorite thing about the Taylor Street dining scene.

The next time you're hungry on a Sunday fun day, snag a seat at Urban Union's kitchen bar, watch the chefs poach those perfect eggs and thank your lucky stars you're not at an IHOP.

Urban Union, 1421 W. Taylor St.; 312-929-4302 or urbanunionchicago.com

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